can anyone advise me the correct grade of fork oil and the quantity I need per fork for my G red 906? Also are there any pitfalls I need to lok out for , or is it a simple job, replacing seals and oil.

Cheers

Ok eye There is a FAQ section that will probly have the type of oil req and the amount . The only tip I can add is that both forks are different internally , one is compression dampening ( the Right ) and the other is rebound ( left ) so don't get the bits mixed up ( do 1 at a time ) and be carful with the rebound adjuster as sometimes the adjuster can gum up and it aint hard to strip the guts out of the knob ( and they are rare as haggis shit )if you try to force it to turn . Forks are 43.5mm so you need the right seal and when removing the seal don't use a narrow lever ( like a screwdriver ) as the top of the outer tube can be damaged as you apply pressure to the lever , use something like a tire lever and put a bit of packing ( bit of folded card ) between it and the top of the fork tube . When you have done all that you can them come back here to find out how to fix the electrical faults .
Welcome to the madhouse
Hamish

EDIT Pate have a look at nickta's post below In this post I have got the fork dampening round the wrong way and the size wrong too..........havn't even had a beer yet

Have a look at this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5827

Lane pretty much did it all to his 906, and there is a section about striping and cleaning the forks.

Oh Mc Tool, have you done it again? Didn't the 906 come with 41.7mm fork tubes?

I can't say I have removed the seals in a Paso/907 as yet, but I remember Gerhard saying the best way to get them out is to drill a small hole, insert a screw and pull them out with a pair of pliers. It doesn't damage the top of the sliders.

Welcome to the Land of Paso...

Cheers.

Nick.

there`s no need to drill a hole just use a sharp screw and drive it into the seal carefully. Warm up the outer side of the fork tube around the oil seal and then it can be pulled out w/o effort.
That is if it doesn`t come out when you yank out the stanchion tube.
These two videos are good:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TCYIEcDcts

Make sure to get oil seals in the size 41,7 x 55 x 7,5/10mm. The 7.5mm is the height. Often taller seals are sold for the Paso but you´ll run into problems installing them.
The job is not that difficult. Just follow the hints in the videos.

The air gap (between the oil level and the upper edge of the stanchion tube is 180mm (as stated in the workshop manual).
Fork oil would be SAE10 but I`d use a 7.5 as that makes the fork just a tiny bit softer.

Hamish` tip to do one fork leg at a time is a good one!

the 7.5mm is the height of the shoulder, the 10mm is the total height including the inner lip.
The overall height is not that relevant. The shoulder height is what determines if the lock ring which is installed above the oil seal fits in its groove or not.

Thanks, that makes it perfectly clear. The stockists I look up for seals usually just quote the height to the shoulder, not the overall height.

Just like to take the opportunity to say thanks to all for the help. Forks done, now the rest!
I bought the bike in December, been off road for 12 year's, previous owner started fitting 900 crabs and lost interest, I went to look at the bike, all bodywork was off. Bought the bike then set about strippingbit down at night in rain, using car headlights to illuminate things. Managed to cram it all into my trusty Toyota Auris and headed home.
I would definitely call it a project the standard Webber carb is there as well, but manifold stubs have been cut. Thanks again folks, anyone out there anywhere near the Scottish Borders?