Phil, no excenters on the 907ie, that`s only the P750/906 swingarm. The 907ie chain adjuster is like the one from any other Duc.

Yeah, sounds like you need a new chain and sprockets. It's always best to change them at the same time. At your current level of expertise and workspace, I would advise you to just bring the bike to a shop and have them do it. Almost any bike shop will be able to order the right parts and install them correctly. Make sure you get a brand name o-ring chain.

Cheers, Phil.

If they advise you a chain with X-rings or Z-rings, this is even better.
the O-, X-, Z- rings are ment to keep the grease between the links and reduce wear.
the presence of these rings doesn't mean the chain is maintenance free. the rollers still needs to be lubricated.
normally a set of good quality can last more than 20.000 km.

Bertus

No Phil,

you can't compare a 900SS which is a nimble bike compared to the 907 truck.
I know because I own also a 900 SS, which is a project the last year. pictures you can find in a 750 thread about frame chopping.
Don't understand me wrong. I DO love the 907, but it is totally different bike.

Bertus

Dang, I took the riders' safety course today... on some 250 cc bikes. They sounded like lawn mowers. I'm glad I got this, I drove 9 hours today, my left forearm is going to be huge...

My bike seems a lot better than before, but I still need to bleed the brakes I guess. I just tied the clutch and brake lever down, some people say that helps get the air out, it seemed to help clutch, but not the brake.

When you guys go into first gear from neutral, does your bike have a sudden jolt? Mine does, even when I go forwards some at the same time.

You NEED to bleed the clutch line.
Using the "search" feature, you'll find tons of how do advices.
However, no: the bike does'nt have to move engaging the first gear.
Ciao

907,
please DO change the hydraulic oil in the clutch line. hydraulic oil is hygroscopic and becomes saturated wiht water wihtin a few years. this can cause an not disengaging clutch and/or corrosion in the internals of the system.
the clutch line is difficult to bleed. As I'm kind of lazy after renewal of the hydraulic oil I take the complete pump including handle bar and hang it up so that the reservoir is the highest point. If you operate the clutch pump now a few times, let it rest for a couple of hours, squeeze again a few times.
At the end our system is bleeded and you can mount the handlebar again.
by now the system should be fine and you can go on to the front and rear brake.
when your bleeding the frontbrake place a piece of 18 mmplywood underneeth one side of the centerstand, so the line from the splitter to the mastercylinder is the highest point. this reduces the riks of remaining air trapped in the line after bleeding. proper bleeded and stainless lines can give a bone-hard feel in the front brake lever.

Bertus

In general, motorcycles hydraulic systems are much more sensitive than automotive, and bicycles hydraulic systems are even worse. Bleed them often. I do my bikes about once a year, usually in the spring after the moist winter. Spend the money for a power bleeder ($50- MightyVac) There's too much riding on the systems that a few dollars in hydraulic fluid and a few minutes of work can offset, its an easy equation. Change the oil in the motor, bleed the hydraulics. Fairly simple rule to keep your bike running properly.

Cheers, Phil

ok thanks, i'll get them both bled.

Hey guys, hope you had a good holiday.

Looks like I created some more problems... I was driving for about 1.5 hours when my power started getting weird. I arrived at my destination and checked my batter, it was around 10.5V... I checked and on the positive side, I had forgot to put on one cable, the charging system I guess. I believe it goes to the stator or regulator/rectifer or something.

Also, there are 2 yellow wires from around motor, I guess where the stator is, that goes up and turns into 3 wires which go into the regulator rectifier box on the aluminum plate on left hand side in front of handlebars.
The 2 yellow wires were melted and missing insulation and one point, before they turned into the 3 wires, closer to the stator, I noticed when smoke was coming out.


When I test the battery, it is 12.67V initially, but when I start the Ducati, it goes down to 12.2, even when I rev it up. Also, when the high idle on, it is normally around 4000 rpm, but now it stays around 2500.



I was talking to the previous owner and he said his stator went bad on the '91 and caused the magnet to sent stuff all over motor and ruin it, so he said not to drive it any more, and I have a multimeter, he was trying to explain how to test stator and everything, but I don't really understand.
My multimeter has 3 holes at bottom for negative and positive wire, They say DC, COM, and the other one has amp sign and some others. Where do I put them when I test? I have the black wire on COM and the red on amp for when I test battery. Where do I put the ends to test the stator wires and everything? It should be around .1 ohm right?

Do I need to replace the wires, or just the insulation? I have an extra stator if this one is bad also, and I found a website that shows you how to rebuild the stator, but the stator I have needs new wires at the end, it is just frayed wires leaving it. I can just crimp or solder new wires on right? What kind of wire?

Thanks

I have so little electric skill, but it happened to me the same issue.
I replaced both the wires and the connections because they all were bad.
No problem from.
Hearing your words about the multimeter connections, it seems to me your electric skills are more or less as mines.
So, I would suggest to do every check with someone who knows what's doing.
However, here you will find all the checks to find out what is going bad on your electrics.
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog ... G-&-RR.pdf.
Good work
Ciao

If I change my fuel filter, all I do is take it off and throw one of these universal filters on there?

http://www.jpcycles.com/1992-ducati-907-ie/fuel-filters

Use a metal filter on NOT plastic. Fairly high pressure, plastic can split. Make sure the pipes and connections are good.

I just read your previous post on electrics, it seems like you are using meter correctly if its reading 12v from battery, on meter, com is neg and you are testing DC(direct current).
I think your regulator is cooked, you should get 12ish volts not running and 13+ volts running, when testing at the battery terminals.

Get the tickover sorted (1000rpm), it will make the bike so much easier to ride.

Cheers, Keith.

I have a spare stator so I will solder that on and try. If that doesn't work, what is the best stator/regulator to put on? From the forums and talking to the last owner, it seems like this happens a lot.

I believe my current regulator is from a Harley


How do I fix the tickover (and what does that mean lol?)