906 MH1R fork oil spec is AGIP F1 ATF DEXRON according to a spec sheet i have found, the Marzocchi manual i down loaded from this site refers to a special Marzocchi oil SAE 5, i can't source this make / type, my local bike dealer nor Halfords recognises either of these, can anyone suggest a modern equivalent that i can just go in the store and buy which will be ok for my newly rebuilt forks. I have no previous experience with this type and i do not want to mess them up with the normal 10 w/ 30 if it's no good, will any 5 weight oil do? the answer is no doubt on this site but despite searching......... thank you jon

every shop that sells bike parts, oils etc will have fork oil no matter the brand. Common fork oils are 5W, 7.5W, 10W, 15W. I used 5 and 7.5 the last times I changed oil. I`d prefer that to 10W.

ATF is automatic transmission fluid. According to what was posted here some time ago that corresponds to 7.5.

From a Marzocchi info sheet I have hope it helps


OIL LEVEL(s)
The oil level is measured from the top of the open fork tube (cap off) to the centerline (repeat: centerline) top of the oil inside the upper fork tube. Take the springs(s) out and compress the fork completely to
Make this measurement.

38mm tube models should have 160 mm of air distance from top
42mm tube models take 170mm of air distance from top.

I recommend you buy one of the many availble fork oil measuring tools that look like a very large medial syringe with a long tube where the needle would be. On that tube there is a sliding disc that will rest on the top of your fork tube. The idea is to put a large amount of oil in the tube and then(with the tool) you suck off the unwanted oil and then repeat for the second tube. Simple and very accurate.....IFthe forks are vertical.

Use 5 weight oil for temps 10-15 centigrade (30-50 F)
Use 10 weight oil for temps above 15c (50 degrees F )
Adjust the oil viscosity to suit temps. There is 2 wt oil for colder temps and you can "play" with mixtures as you desire and learn.

weight of oil can`t be a matter of temperatures only, but also from bike weight, fork type, springs used etc.
I`m currently using 2.5 which is recommended with the progressive springs I`m using. I don`t know, but I think using 10W and higher will slow down the forks making them less responsive.

Thanks chaps, what an amazingly quick response, i now have all the info i need to sort the front end, i will go shopping in the morning. Just wanted to be sure there was no 'YOU MUST ONLY USE..........' directive which i wasn't aware of.
As for temp v viscosity, it's so bloody cold here at the moment, i think i could use weazel piss in the M1R's
Thanks again for the info.. all useful. jon

are you just changing oil or stripping and rebuilding the fork completely ?

I have put new dust and oil seals in the forks, cleaned them out , stripped paint from sliders, re-painted and affixed new M1R stickers and am about to sort the oil! I removed the forks / yokes (triple clamps) as the headstock bearings were semi seized / dry of grease so having replaced the bearings and seeing the dust covers were split it made sense to overhaul the forks. Pleased to say the old oil was clean (bike only done 10500 miles) and everything looked ok but the paint had suffered so stripped and repainted them. Hopefully once i have the oil i will have it back on it's wheels at the weekend. Jon

in prevoius posts this web page was recommended by others.
http://www.ducati851and888.com/showthread.php?t=24

I have just had my forks serviced from asr.com.au [near Melbourne]. He spoke to another shop in Sydney and did the hole dilling [ to allow the oil to return faster ] and different oil weights in each leg.
The Lower bushes [replaced] are the same as in some BMW forks.

Having just returned from holidays I hope to pick then up soon along with the new Wilbers rear :-))

ATF works perfectly in all temperatures down to zero. I don't like to ride in anyhting less. Then again, I don't like to ride in anything less than 25 degrees really. The manual recommends ATF and it works great. Just one extra click on the rebound and 31 or 32 PSI in the front tyre.....beautiful!

Even better idf you get rid of the useless Michelin from the front and put on a decent 130/70-16 Bridgestone etc.

I have now gone to 17 wheels and wish I had the 17 inch rear with the 16 inch front 130/70-16 Bridgestone

The 17 inch front is OK on the road but is hard work on the track. It just won't turn-in the same.