Measuring on battery, engine revving 3-4000 RPM: 13,5 - 14,5V.

... and its normal, that voltage drops to 12.4-12.8 Volts in idle, what should be over 1200. Never go upper, than 14.7-14.8V, what is maximum. 14.0V is optimi to normal battery for charching and if under 12.5V, then need to charge. Ducatis need full charged battery to turn easily and injected bikes it helps little, when open throttle about 10% before push start knob, that sylinders get easier air/turn easier. I have noticed this in both 907IE and ST4S.

Rechecked my voltage i am getting a consistant 15.3 volts Like yourself Finnpaso i woild have thought 14.8 would be maximum However just had a look in the Haynes manual for aircooled ss ducatis and it says up to 15.5 is ok :confused: So i have emailed electrex for a definative answer :thumbup:

If talking normal battery(not any gel, or so), then 14.8V is maximum. If voltage is over that, then battery start to "boil" and then start to need add water quite often and one time u forget to add that water and then its end of that battery. I think 15.3 V is too high and there must be some reason for that also. I think, U should check all connections and groundings again..... They have had plenty of regulator problems in early(90s) 750/900 SS. Those times Ducati OEM regulators didnt function, like should. Thats why Ducati changed to jap regulators(like Shindengen in 916).

Ah now i am not really thinking straight on this i am using a Hayabusa gel type battery :confused: could this be the reason ? I am getting a high reading

I think, that is not reason, but i have "heard", that gel battery need to charge with lower amps, than normal battery. That dont function, when its put to bike, cause at least 906 system is designed to normal battery. I quess, that You have some bad connection. But if use 230V AC charger, then its better maybe to choose little different charger, or at least such, what have adjustable curent limiter. Anyway if U have 16Ah battery, then maximun charge current should be 160 mA. If 12Ah battery, then 120mA current. As i told, bikes charching systenm is so "stupid", that it put plenty of current to battery, if "need"(after start long time).....

Hi Steele, what happened to make you change the regulator/rectifier, a couple of months ago, the charging red light came on and stayed on. Found that main 35 amp fuse had blown changed it and used volt meter to check charging and continuity test to alternator was fine, but last weekend light came back on and no charge to battery, fuse was fine, not had a chance to do another continuity test, can I do any more checks or just buy a new reg/reg as you did? thanks Peter


It was my reg/rect. I replaced it last night with a new RR51, easy,but found the rear shock reservoir interfered with the new unit, so had to adjust the bracket for more clearance(drilled out mounting holes)

not sure if a Supersport or Monster regulator has the same technical spec as the one of the Paso (although they do work on the Paso as well), but maybe it will still help.... Download "electrics" and look at the very last page of the pdf.

http://www.box.net/public/oq4fober14

G.

What RPM did you get the 15 volts at??