So let me try and understand where this is at. The Paso clutch slave cylinder parts are not available anymore. I can "maybe" use 900SS or 907IE parts if I hone the bore in the cover to match the larger diameter of the later dry clutch engines. Ad or subtract shims to length of the piston to get the same travel length as the OEM Paso. The button is impossible to remove? Has anyone drilled into the back of the piston to the depth of the bearing and button, then driven them with a drift or punch out the front of the piston? If that fails I am to make a button out of a metal that has the same characteristics thermally as well as the Rockwell hardness of the original bronze button? Silicone-bronze for reduced corrosion? The kit on Ebay did not have the bearing and button, correct?

The kit on e-bay had the button, bearings, seal, spring, o-ring and piston. The whole kit that fits into the the clutch cover.

The other version, as best I can tell, has just a smooth piston with a thrust bearing and slicon bronze insert. Does anyone have a picture of the inside of the cover? Is the seal inserted into the cover? Is the Paso clutch wet or dry? I had assumed it was the same as the Sport, but now I am beginning to wonder.

Cheers,

I could not see the bearing in the picture. I was the first bidder in the auction. Just goes to show the value of the buy it now feature. Mine is a dry clutch, but there is some question in my mind as to whether this kit would have worked in a Paso. I ordered a bearing today, but it is not the same manufacture as the one on this thread.

I do not have a DUC dealer anywhere (within 300 km) close by me, that has been my biggest problem thus far with repairing the Paso. What do you think of making a piston from pipe, low carbon-stainless- cro-moly, od 25.94mm (1 inch), id 19mm (.75 inches), bore to the depth and width of 10mm x 22mm for the bearing. Plug the bottom with 19mm x 13mm steel stock? Then put in a new bearing and button (m8 bolt of marine brass).