this is the fuel filter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-DUCATI-MH90 ... fd&vxp=mtr
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-D ... 27cdfbbcf9

Regulator/rectifiers are a standard problem on older Ducatis. There are several aftermarket replacements. Often used is the Electrosport/Electrex RR51.

"Tickover" means "idle".

G.

wow, brakes don`t work, clutch doesn`t work properly and now it`s for sale as "This bike runs and handles great" and for $1.300 more than you paid for ?!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducati-S ... 2a280f95fd

Well, I suppose its all for the best. Kinda like a wild girl I once dated. Heck of a ride, but there were going to be injuries and legal problems if it went on much longer. Not a good match, but oh the allure.

Kinda saw that coming. I should have made an offer a few weeks ago.

Haha no I just copied the same thing that was on their when I bought it. I don't want to sell it 100% so I put it higher in price. I just don't have a job now so I thought it would be better to get something a little more economical like a honda civic.

What is the benefits of a 907ie over other more common bikes (besides being sexy)? Parts are more difficult to find, and stuff, but what makes it a better choice mechanically than something like a r6, gsxr750, or cbr1000?

any jap bike will outperform, need less mantainance, are cheaper to buy and repair, which makes a lot of sense to most bikers...on the other hand, the 907 has its uneque styling, its now over 20yrs old and still looks great, its a low tech machine BUT! a very capable bike with heaps of character and when everything goes right, it will always leave you with a smile on your face, and that in my opinion is priceless

Well put Claude.

Pasonut,

very well spoken. I like to hunt those Japanese bikes with my old tractor (907).
If a V-twin like the 907 is riden well, it is a fun to work on the bike,... and rewarding.
When you take off your helmet after a ride the face in the mirror tells the story.

Bertus

Why is it that it sounds (at least mine) so much deeper than Japanese bikes?

why does a Harley ? It`s a big bore 2 cylinder bike.
Other than a 4 cylinder jap bike that divides its 900cc on 4 small cylinders (i.e. 66mm diameter) you have 2 cylinders with 94mm. Hence a Duc sounds more like a thumping tractor

For the same reason you hardly can compare a 907ie to a R1, GSXR etc. The engine charachteristics are different. A 2 cylinder has nice torque while a R1 needs to be revved.

Your hicomp pistons and Staintunes will add to the sound.

When I start my bike now it is at 3000 rpm, and stays around there, if I turn the choke on (pull lever towards me), then it goes down to 1000, and if it is now warmed up it will kill the engine.

Is this a problem?

To clarify
You have sorted the over filling issue with the engine oil change ...yes?

With engine cold.

Okay with choke on one third of full lever action ...that is place it one third open as opposed to fully open on the lever.

Without touching throttle start engine. (give it about 6 spins but please stop if it starts)

No start open a third more.

try start again (give about 6 spins but please stop if it starts )


No start open it fully

try start again (give about 6 spins but please stop if it starts )

If it starts allow to rev but gently close the open choke lever until engine idle settles. (should take no more than about 15 to 20 seconds)

Remember DO NOT touch the throttle grip at any point.

Also remember that on each of the three phases with the choke if the engine starts gently close the choke.

Also appreciate that each time you try and start you will inject fuel into the cylinders so there will be a lot of fuel to burn on initial start.


If the engine can be set at idle speed using just the choke. then gently open and then close the throttle two or three times allowing engine to settle.

Please let me (us ) know now what engine is doing rev wise and at what point (mark) choke lever is at please. Maybe take a picture of rev counter and choke lever (as clear as possible please)


ALSO READ ON TO MY NEXT POST

907ie Can I ask you to please have a good look at our founder member - JCSLOCOM's site please aswell

http://www.ducatisuite.com/basicmaintenance.html


Just to hopefully explain a little to you about the choke lever on a fuel injected motorcycle is simply a fast idle control. The ECU does all the adjusting for you , coolant temp, air temp, air density, throttle position, all electrics and engine running basically etc.

On the 907ie the choke lever just moves a cam on the left side of the throttle body linkages and makes the butterflies open and TPS reads this and sends the position to the ECU and it now knows to add more fuel to match the more opened butterflies in the throttle bodies,(simplified version).

Do not touch anything but please just look under the tank and around the steering head set and around the fairing following the throttle cable line.......has maybe the throttle cable slipped or stretched or have you man handled something or moved the cables slightly while checking the oil.

Please have a look at this thread

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5741&hilit=tps

For reference only there is also another link within this which will explain more pleases read, digest and then ask some more questions before you start using those newly advised mechanics hands of yours


If I recall Tamburinifan on this site is well versed on the 907ie Injection system and setting up etc.

Ok, I emptied some oil, so it is at minimum mark in riding position. When I started it for about 90 seconds and shut off, their were still bubbles, but much less. They went as high as the middle of the 2 lines, and you could see the normal color oil below it at the minimum mark like before.


I tried to do what you said (English) about starting in the different choke positions.

/\
| (front of bike
|

X (open fully)

X (open 1/3 more)

0 (1/3 full lever action) <--- Starting here

|
|
\/ (back of bike)



Where the open fully is turning the lever toward front of bike. (If you view from side where kickstand is, you would be turning to your left)


-My battery was only 12.6 because I had it in for a few days and did not put it on the tender until now, so I will have to do the test again, however I'm pretty sure the same thing happens with a fully charged battery.
-On 1/3 full lever, it went 6 times and never started. Then the lights went out for about 2 seconds, and then came back on and fuel pump went on.
-I tried again 2/3 and it turned 3 times and then shut off by itself and the headlights went off again and after 2 seconds came back on.
-Then, opened all the way and it turned 2 times and shut off... I turned off the key and waited a couple of seconds and same thing, so I held throttle a little bit as I turned it on and it turned on no problem... but I didn't even realize it turned on for a second, because usually it is very very loud like a huge backfire when it starts, but now it started almost the same amount of noise as it kept running.



It started and was at 2000 rpm. Over a period of about 90 seconds it would fluctuate around 2000-2500, but never go above that.
-After that time I turned it to 2/3 and it went to 1000 for about 4-5 seconds and then the engine died.




I guess there are still a lot of problems I need to fix and check on the other stuff you guys posted, but for now is it ok to drive with the bubbles how they are?