Ok, so after a brief ride, the same problems. I had a hard time locating a gasket kit, but eventually found a rebuild kit for the carb from Pierce Manifold in NY. It is gonna run me about 60 bucks, but hopefully it will help out my situation. I will let everyone know if it helps out. If anyone know of any tricks or things to watch out for when rebuilding these webers let me know...I have some diagrams at least!

Haynes has a carburettor manual for the webber (393), although i don't know if it is still in print... my copy is from 1984.
It's not the easiest thing to understand, although it does provide some useful information.

Be careful not to over tighten anything. Weber's like all carbs are very easy to over torque and you will warp it and then you will never get it working properly Use the smallest driver you have and just snug everything.top screws,jets and base bolts,air box extensions. Also watch out for the o-rings on the idle jets if you cut them you will have lean miss just like the one you have now. put them on the jets first and make sure they go in straight and like the rest just snug not too tight. If you have an air supply blow air through every passage and wear safety glasses especially if you are useing carb cleaner. Take my word for it carb cleaner does really nasty things to your eyeballs even in very small doses.
Give fast road cars on ebay a try next time you need parts even with postage from the UK they are cheaper than pierce.

Thanks for the advice Higgy. I will see if I can find a manual, but I imagine I can handle the rebuild. I will take extra care on not overtightening anything. Have you ever heard of anyone having trouble seating the gas tank after taking the airbox off. When I pulled the box off to check all of the linkage, and carb adjustment...I couldnt get the gas tank to sit down on top of the reinstalled air box, so I pulled it off for now. I couldnt see it hanging up anywhere? Im sure its a rookie mistake. Anyway, it's not critical, but I will have to make a different filter set up otherwise.

yeah spacer and aluminium block goes inside the airbox only a gasket goes between the airbox and the top of the carb. Most likely I will be taking mine apart this weekend I'll post some pictures for you. You don't need a manual,there is none specifically for the dcnf in print PM me if you need help before the weekend,I'll do my best to hepl
Where in the wide world are you ?

gasket...airbox...gasket....plastic block....gasket.....alum plenum presto change-o tank fits

Ok everybody...Here is an update on my engine issues. My rebuild kit for my carb arrived finally! I took my time cleaning it, and tried to do everything right. It had a little varnish in the bowl, and a few specks on the jets. Mostly it had clogged up the filter element in the carb. Upon installation of the carb I did notice the choke cable is sticking now(I dont think it was before), so I need to replace it. I started it up, and took off down the road!!! This bike feels like it has a different engine in it. Between that and the 70 series tire I put on the front, its a whole new bike. It has a little hiccup midway through the powerband...but the good news...it has a power band! This is the best 50 bucks I've spent on this thing!!! Im back on the road!!! Not only that, its trying to pull the front tire off the ground, which is a new experience for me on this bike! Thanks again for everyones help on this particular issue. I would recommend rebuilding that weber to anyone who is having similar issues! It was actually kind of fun.

put non oxygenated gas in the bike if this is available to you

balancing the carb and getting the idle screws set properly will help with the midrange hiccup, the 750 faq has all the info you need to do it yourself for about 10 bucks. Also raising the idle jet from the stock 65 to 70 helps a lot as well

Thanks Higgy. I thought that getting the carb synched and adjusted properly would do the trick. I will look into swapping out the idle jets this winter, when I do a tear down of the bike, for powdercoating, and paint. I will check out the thread on how to get my carb adjusted. I rode my bike 32 miles to work and back with little trouble, but before going on road trip I need to replace the R/R unit!